Why Secondhand Clothing Smells and How to Fix It (A Genuinely Honest Guide From Someone Who Handles This Every Day)

Let me be completely honest with you. Every week I open packages of vintage Ralph Lauren polo shirts, Lacoste knitwear and Tommy Hilfiger jackets, and a good number of them smell. Not all of them, not even most of them, but enough that dealing with secondhand clothing odour is just part of the job. It is nothing to be embarrassed about and nothing to panic over. In almost every case, the smell is fixable. But you need to know what you are dealing with before you reach for a product, because the wrong approach can damage the fabric and make things worse. This guide covers everything I have learned from handling hundreds of secondhand garments every year: why they smell, which smells are which, how to remove them fabric by fabric, and when to walk away.

Why does secondhand clothing smell? The real reasons

The smell on a secondhand or vintage garment is almost never just one thing. It is a layered accumulation of everything that garment has been through in its previous life. Think of it less as a single bad smell and more as a record of its history.

Body oils and sweat

This is the most common source. When we wear clothing, our skin deposits a continuous stream of oils, dead cells and sweat into the fabric. Over time, bacteria break those deposits down, and the byproducts have a distinctive sour, musty character. The longer a garment has been stored unwashed, the more embedded those compounds become. Research on textile malodour has found that the majority of the key odour molecules in vintage clothing come directly from body soils, including skin lipids, sweat and sebum, sometimes as old as the garment itself.

Storage conditions

Where a garment has been kept matters enormously. A polo shirt stored in a dry wardrobe for two years smells very different from one that spent a decade in a damp basement. Garments packed in cardboard boxes, plastic bags or old trunks absorb the smell of their environment deeply into the fibres. Cardboard itself has a distinctive musty odour that transfers readily to fabric. Cold, damp conditions encourage mould and mildew growth, which produces that sharp, sour smell that is harder to shift than simple mustiness.

Perfume and fabric softener

Heavily scented products are a very common culprit. The previous owner may have used a strong perfume, a heavily fragranced fabric softener or scent beads in their laundry. These synthetic fragrance compounds bond to fibres and can survive multiple washes. This is actually one of the trickier odours to remove because it is not bacterial, so killing bacteria will not help. You need to physically lift the fragrance molecules out of the fabric.

Mothballs

If you have ever opened a bag of vintage knitwear and been hit with that sharp, chemical, camphor-like smell, you have met mothballs. They were once a standard tool for protecting wool garments during long-term storage. Their active ingredients, typically naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene, slowly release chemical vapours that settle deep into fabric fibres. The smell can cling for years and is one of the most stubborn odours you will encounter on vintage clothing. It is not impossible to remove, but it takes patience and the right approach.

Cigarette smoke

Smoke particles are tiny and penetrate fabric at a molecular level. A garment worn regularly around smokers, or stored in a home where people smoked, can carry that smell for a very long time. It is one of the most persistent odours in vintage clothing and sometimes requires professional treatment to fully eliminate.

Dry cleaning solvents and commercial deodorisers

Charity shops and vintage stores often spray garments with commercial deodorisers to mask existing smells. The result is sometimes a strange hybrid odour, the original smell still present underneath a layer of synthetic fragrance. Some garments have also been dry cleaned, and traces of the solvent used (perchloroethylene, commonly called perc) can linger. It is not harmful once properly aired but it does have a distinctive chemical smell that fades given enough time and ventilation.

Why some fabrics smell worse than others

This is something I wish more guides talked about, because understanding your fabric changes everything about how you approach the problem.

Polyester is the most difficult fabric to deodorise. Its hydrophobic (water-repelling) structure means it does not absorb water well, which sounds like a good thing, but it also means it attracts the fatty acids in sweat and holds them tenaciously in the fibre. A vintage polyester shirt from the 1970s can smell dramatically worse than a cotton shirt from the same era. Textile research has confirmed that polyester and polyamide (nylon) sit at the top of the odour-retention scale.

Cotton is generally the most forgiving. It absorbs water readily, which means a good wash can reach the odour molecules and remove them. This is good news for vintage Ralph Lauren polo shirts and Tommy Hilfiger chinos, which are predominantly cotton. A properly structured wash, sometimes with a soak first, will fix most cotton garments.

Wool is interesting. It is naturally antimicrobial, which means it resists body odour during wear better than synthetics. But it is also delicate, shrinks in hot water and requires careful handling. The good news is that airing wool outdoors is surprisingly effective, because the fibres breathe well and release odour molecules readily. The bad news is that wool plus damp storage equals stubborn mildew, which is harder to shift.

Silk sits somewhere in the middle but demands the most careful treatment. It cannot handle vinegar well (the acid can damage the protein fibres), it cannot handle hot water and it should never go in a regular machine wash. For smelly silk pieces, gentle airing and specialist care are your main tools.

For a more complete guide on caring for different fabric types in vintage pieces, our guide on how to wash and care for vintage clothing goes into the detail on labels, temperatures and techniques.

How to fix it: the full step by step guide by smell type

Before anything else, check the care label. If it says dry clean only, do not put it in water. If there is no label (common on older vintage pieces), treat it as delicate until you know otherwise. Start with the gentlest method and escalate only if needed. This is the order of escalation that I use.

Step 1: Air it out first, always

This sounds almost too simple, but it works more often than you would expect. Hang the garment outside in fresh air, ideally on a dry breezy day with some sunlight. UV light acts as a natural disinfectant, helping to break down the bacteria responsible for musty and sweaty smells, while the airflow carries odour molecules away. Leave it for a full day, or even two. For light mustiness and mild perfume smells, this is sometimes all you need. Do not skip this step even if you are planning to wash the garment. Airing first reduces the load on whatever method comes next.

Step 2: Activated charcoal for non-washable pieces

If the garment is dry clean only, delicate silk, or a structured wool blazer that you cannot safely submerge in water, activated charcoal is your best friend. Place the garment in a sealed bag or clean storage box with a few sachets of activated charcoal (available from most homeware shops for around €3 to €8 for a pack). Seal it up and leave it for three to five days. The charcoal absorbs odour molecules passively without touching the fabric. This works particularly well for mustiness and the early stages of mothball smell. For mildew, it helps but may not be enough on its own.

Step 3: Vodka spray (yes, really)

This one surprises people but it genuinely works. Fill a spray bottle with plain unflavoured vodka and mist the garment lightly, focusing on areas that smell strongest, typically underarms, collar and cuffs. As the alcohol evaporates, it carries odour molecules with it. The garment should not smell of vodka once dry. It does not need to be expensive vodka, a cheap supermarket bottle is absolutely fine. This is particularly useful for wool and structured garments that cannot go in the wash, and works well on perfume and mild sweat smells. Leave the garment to air dry completely after spraying.

Step 4: White vinegar soak for washable fabrics

For cotton, linen and most synthetic blends that can be washed, a white vinegar soak before washing is one of the most effective tools available. Fill a basin or your bathtub with cool water and add about 250ml of distilled white vinegar. Submerge the garment and leave it to soak for 30 to 60 minutes. Then wash it at the appropriate temperature for the fabric. Do not use vinegar on silk or wool as the acidity can affect the protein fibres over time.

The science here is simple. Vinegar is a mild acid that neutralises the alkaline compounds in many odours, particularly body odour, mildew and some perfume residues. It also helps break down the fatty acid deposits that bacteria feed on. The vinegar smell itself disappears completely as the fabric dries, so do not worry about smelling like a chip shop.

Step 5: Baking soda during the wash

Add half a cup of baking soda to your washing machine drum alongside your regular detergent. Baking soda is alkaline, which makes it effective against acidic odour compounds. Used in combination with the vinegar pre-soak (note: use them at different stages, not simultaneously, as they cancel each other out), this gives you a two-stage chemical attack on stubborn odours. For persistent smells, you can also make a paste of baking soda and water, apply it to the worst-affected areas and leave it for 30 minutes before washing.

Step 6: Enzyme-based detergents for sweat and body odour

A standard detergent cleans by lifting dirt from fabric surfaces. An enzyme-based detergent goes further by actually breaking down the organic molecules that cause body odour, including proteins and fatty acids. For vintage clothing with deep-seated sweat smells, this makes a meaningful difference. Look for detergents that specifically mention odour elimination or sport/active garments. They typically cost between €8 and €15 per bottle and are widely available. Do not use them on wool or silk though, as the enzymes can damage protein-based fibres.

Step 7: Steaming

A garment steamer is one of the most underrated tools for secondhand clothing care. The combination of heat and moisture loosens odour molecules from fibres and kills surface bacteria. It is gentle enough for wool and even many silks when used carefully at the right distance. A decent home steamer costs between €30 and €80 and is worth every cent if you buy secondhand regularly. Steam the entire garment, paying extra attention to collar, underarms and cuffs, then let it hang to dry and air for a few hours afterward. For the "stale storage" musty smell in particular, steaming is highly effective.

Dealing with the really stubborn smells

Mothball smell

Mothballs require patience above all else. Start with extended airing outdoors, ideally several days rather than hours. Follow this with the activated charcoal bag treatment for at least five to seven days. If the garment is washable, a cool water soak with white vinegar can then help shift what remains. For wool pieces, hand wash very gently in cool water with a small amount of mild wool detergent and lay flat to dry. Never put a mothball-smelling garment in the dryer before the smell has gone. Heat sets odour molecules into fibres and makes things worse. If after all of this the smell is still strong, a professional dry cleaner offering ozone treatment is your best option. Ozone generators produce ozone gas that oxidises odour molecules directly. It is often the only thing that fully removes entrenched mothball and smoke smells. This service typically costs between €15 and €40 depending on the garment.

Cigarette smoke

Smoke is genuinely one of the hardest smells to remove from fabric. For washable pieces, use the vinegar soak followed by an enzyme detergent wash. For dry clean only items, activated charcoal over multiple rounds combined with outdoor airing is your best home option. But if the smoke smell is strong and the garment is valuable to you, go straight to a professional dry cleaner with ozone treatment rather than spending weeks on home methods. Ask specifically for ozone deodorising. Not all dry cleaners offer it, so it is worth calling ahead.

Mildew

Mildew is not just a smell, it is a living fungus growing in the fibres. For washable fabrics, washing at the highest temperature the care label allows, with a good detergent and a cup of white vinegar in the rinse cycle, is usually effective. For dry clean only pieces, the problem is more serious. If more than a small area of the garment is affected by mildew, it may not be worth trying to salvage it. Mildew can weaken fibres permanently. A professional cleaner can assess whether treatment is worthwhile.

Before you buy: the smell check

This section does not exist in most guides, but it might be the most valuable advice here. If you are buying secondhand clothing in person, always smell the garment before you buy it. This sounds obvious but people feel embarrassed doing it in a shop. Do not be. It is sensible due diligence.

Hold the collar and the underarm areas close to your nose. If you can smell cigarette smoke, think carefully. Smoke in fabric is a long project. If you can smell strong mildew, be cautious, especially on wool. Mildew can mean fibre damage you cannot see. Light mustiness? Almost always fixable. Perfume? Usually fixable. Mothballs? Fixable but time consuming.

When buying online, this is trickier. Look for sellers who describe the condition of their garments honestly. At Revaleur, we describe the smell condition of every piece we sell and we treat garments ourselves before listing them. We never sell anything we would not be happy wearing ourselves. For a deeper look at how we think about sourcing and quality, see our article on how Revaleur sources and verifies its clothing.

When to walk away

I believe in giving garments every reasonable chance. But there are times when walking away is the right call.

• If the mildew covers more than a small area, the fibres may already be compromised. The garment could fall apart.
• If the cigarette smoke smell is so strong it makes your eyes water, you are looking at a long, expensive project that may not succeed.
• If you have tried three or four methods and the smell is still clearly present, the odour molecules are embedded too deep to remove at home.
• If the garment is cheap and the problem is severe, the cost of professional treatment will likely exceed the value of the piece.

Secondhand shopping is about finding things worth having. A garment that cannot be rescued is not a bargain at any price.

Keeping rescued garments smelling fresh

Once you have put in the work to deodorise a garment, store it properly so the smell does not return. Keep clean garments in a dry, ventilated wardrobe, not in sealed plastic bags which trap humidity. Cedar blocks or sachets placed in your wardrobe are a natural, pleasant smelling deterrent to both moths and musty air. Do not store clean garments in cardboard boxes, which are themselves a source of that musty smell. Breathable cotton garment bags are ideal for pieces you want to store long term.

Secondhand clothing is worth the occasional extra effort. A vintage Ralph Lauren polo or a classic Lacoste knit that smells a little musty is not a lost cause. It is a garment with history that just needs a bit of attention before it becomes yours. Most of the time, with the right approach, you can have it smelling completely fresh within a day or two. And the end result, a quality piece of clothing that will last another decade, bought consciously and at a fraction of its original price, is genuinely satisfying.

If you are curious about the broader case for buying secondhand, our piece on why secondhand designer clothing is better value than fast fashion makes the argument in full.

And if you are ready to find something worth adding to your wardrobe, you are welcome to browse the current Revaleur collection at revaleur.com. Everything is carefully selected, honestly described and treated before it reaches you.